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Wine,
Dine & Deal
by Laura Hagar Rush
May 2005
The menu really (has) something for everyone, from Prather
Ranch organic beef hamburgers to elegant California-styled
fish offerings to wild mushroom pasta.
Fish is the obvious choice: The Paradise Bay Cioppino,
with its generous pile of crab, clams, and mussels in
a rich tomato fennel broth, is one of the best of best
I've tasted.
On the small plates menu, the rice paper seared ahi with
avocado and enoki mushrooms is the clear standout: the
cool, pink bites of ahi, barely seared and miraculously
fresh, will make you feel that cooking tuna more than
this would be a desecration. The smoked salmon cakes came
with lemon aioli and a perfect foil of pink grapefruit
slices and watercress.
While fish is clearly king here, it would be a pity to
miss the fragrant tamarind-glazed, double-cut pork chops,
grilled to the palest pink perfection. Finished with a
pickled ginger demi-glace, the pork chop is served with
luscious sweet potato corn cakes, bursting with tender-crisp
kernels of fresh corn.
Northbay
Biz
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